![]() ![]() As the moisture leaves, the air cell in the egg grows. Moisture leaves the eggs through the pores of the shell. This weight that it is loosing is actually moisture. An egg needs to loose 13/14% of it's weight during incubation. So how do you make the confusing understandable? In my opinion the first step is to understand why we control the humidity. Some very seasoned hatchers don't even bother with monitoring humidity because they've done it so much they just know what works for them. They have just found what works for them. Getting a definite answer is impossible and the issue of humidity can be very confusing. The quality of eggs also can play a role. ![]() The habits of the hatcher, the area that they are in and whether they have a dry or humid atmosphere. Why is this? Because different things work for different people because of various factors that these books and manuals do not take into consideration. The only thing that is widely agreed upon is that at lockdown and hatch it needs to be higher. These manuals either throw out a number, (that in my opinion is usually too high) or tell you how much water to put in the wells (regardless of how much humidity that causes.)Īsk what your humidity should be on a forum and you will undoubtedly get at least a dozen different opinions. I read in a book it should be between this number and that number. How many people know why you regulate humidity as a newbie? I know I didn't. The biggest thing with these manuals that bother me though is the humidity recommendations. It doesn't mean the hatch will be “late”, but it certainly can contribute to it. A newbie follows this instruction and ends up with a late hatch. Ask any veteran hatcher and they will tell you that still air incubators run better hatches at 101-102F measured near the top of the egg. Many of the still air incubator manuals still state that the incubator should maintain 99.5F. I'm sure there's some pertinent info in there about your specific incubator, but as a guideline for new hatchers they are awful!!!!! These manuals are very generic and often not accurate where hatching is concerned. ![]() Overall, when you compare the new Little Giant® 9300 Still Air Incubator, 10300 Circulated Air, and 11300 Deluxe Incubator (with egg turner) to our competitors, you will find that this USA-made unit boasts the digital performance, safety features, and accuracy far surpassing that of others in our market.Ok, not really. There are no sharp edges, removing the risk of poking the hatching hobbyist or scratching the newly hatched chicks. ![]() All three models include a dishwasher-safe plastic mesh screen for easy clean-up and improved sanitation of the unit for subsequent hatches. The fan’s electronics have also been redesigned for user safety, now allowing for a simple plug-and-play design to upgrade your 9300 to a circulated air unit. We want your hatch to be safe and successful for all hobbyists. This makes all three units ideal for a classroom setting to teach future hobbyists the science of poultry incubation. The redesigned plastic heater is much cooler to the touch than traditional metal heating elements (that can reach 265 degrees!). We have also focused on state-of-the-art safety features for both the hobbyist and the chicks. With predictive temperature technology, the unit then holds your set temperature within ONE degree! This is vastly improved over previous designs that can be tricky to dial into the desired temperature. The Little Giant® 9300, 10300, and 11300 series of digital incubators includes a digital control board with one-touch temperature setting. The next generation of incubator technology is here! We are proud and excited to offer you the performance and electronics of high-end, expensive incubators at hobbyist price points. UPDATE: Tips for Getting Started with Your Incubator ![]()
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